I have been as critical of France as the next guy, especially over the past five years. However, going to France and seeing and meeting French people somewhat softened my attitude. France was and is a great civilization, albeit one that is in decline. I would love to see it saved, to resume its once prominent position as a center of Western Civilization.
My attitude was softened by the courtesy shown to me by my French hosts. I went there expecting coldness and rudeness from the French, but did not get what I expected. I had been told that they would be rude to anyone who did not speak French or spoke it poorly. They weren't. My first encounter with a French person was the lovely young woman taxi driver who transported us from the train station (where we had traveled from Amsterdam) to our hotel. I gave her a preprinted card showing the name of our hotel and the address. "Nous allons ici," said I. "Okay," she replied. I hopped in front with her and let my son and nephew occupy the rear seat.
In the car she asked me in stumbling English to wear my seat belt. I said, "D'accord!" and put it on. She said, "Thank you." I replied, "Pas de quoi!" Finally I realized she could understand English so I told her what a good driver she was. She smiled. She had nice legs too, but I didn't mention that.
Many of the French do speak English and are willing to do so. Later, when we were exploring the Champs d'Elysee, I noted that most of the storefronts were in French, but had an English translation below. The French were clearly marketing to their English-speaking customers. To be honest, I was a bit disappointed. I wanted it all in French. My wife, however, was annoyed that it wasn't all in English. She's a hard woman.
In the restaurants where we ate, the waiters all spoke fluent English and catered to us and tried to please us. The only time I had to speak French was the one time we went to McDonald's. The little French girl behind the counter didn't speak English. However, all I really had to do was point at the order board on the wall and hold up two fingers to indicate a double order. The Parisian McDonald's was packed. So much for the cultural purists.
Most restaurant menus were in French, but also had English subtitles. This didn't always work out. Creme Brulee was described as "Broiled Cream." It is actually a delicate custard.
My experience indicates the Parisians are not rude to Americans and if you don't speak French, go anyway. I have no second thoughts about returning to France. Next stop: Normandy.
Saturday, October 13, 2007
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